Aerial view of Le Caméléon Boutique Hotel on Playa Cocles, with its thatched pavilion

Costa Rica / Puerto Viejo / Where to stay

Puerto Viejo · Where to stay

Where to stayin Puerto Viejo

Pick the coast first, then the hotel. “Puerto Viejo” is six kilometres of coast road, and where you sleep on it changes the whole trip.

5areas to choose fromBike or carto move between them
Start here

One road, five different trips

The town and the end of the road are twenty minutes apart and feel nothing alike. Decide how close you want to be to restaurants, whether you will have a car, and who you are travelling with. The area follows from that; the hotel comes last.

Choosing between this coast and the national park town? See Puerto Viejo or Cahuita.
How to choose

Four questions, one area

Answer these in order. Each one points to a stretch of the coast, and opens it below.

A dugout boat on the shore at sunset in Puerto Viejo
Best for no car, walking to dinner, some nightlife

Puerto Viejo town / Playa Negra

The busiest stretch, and the one base you can do without a car. Restaurants, bars and bike rentals within a few blocks; Playa Negra’s black sand is a short walk north.

No car neededFood & nightlifeWalkable
Surf and a small island seen from the sand at Playa Cocles
Best for surf on your doorstep, still a short cycle to town

Cocles

A long, open beach with the area’s main surf, and close enough to cycle into town for dinner.

SurfWide beach5 min to town
Clear shallow water and a pale sand beach at Playa Chiquita
Best for quiet garden hotels and slow evenings

Playa Chiquita

Greener and more spread out, with most of the design-led garden hotels. A ride for every meal.

QuietDesign staysCouples
Shadows of the trees across the sand of the cove at Punta Uva
Best for calmer water and families; furthest from restaurants

Punta Uva

Often the calmest swimming on the coast, and a good base with young kids, as long as you accept the ride to meals.

Calm waterFamiliesRemote-ish
A beach with palm trees in the foreground in the Gandoca-Manzanillo refuge
Best for remote, nature-first, very few places to eat

Manzanillo

Where the road ends, against the wildlife refuge. Nature first, and almost nowhere to eat out.

Wildlife refugeVery remoteSelf-catered

Unsure about the beach? See every beach compared.

Our picks

Three hotels we’d recommend

Not a ranked list and not every good hotel on the coast. Three chosen for character, one for each kind of stay.

The pool, thatched pavilion and terrace of Hotel Aguas Claras on Playa ChiquitaDesign-led

Hotel Aguas Claras

An art and design hotel of bungalows and suites on Playa Chiquita, with ocean-side beach access and a beach club restaurant and bar.

Playa ChiquitaBest for couples who care about the room
The wooden main house of Hotel Banana Azul with its balcony, framed by palmsAdults only

Hotel Banana Azul

Adults-only and beachfront on Playa Negra, with a small pool and tropical gardens; about a 30-minute walk along the beach or a short drive into town.

Playa Negra, north of townBest for a calm beachfront base north of town
Aerial view of Le Caméléon Boutique Hotel on Playa Cocles, with its thatched pavilionBeachfront

Le Caméléon

A minimalist beachfront hotel on Playa Cocles, with ocean-view and garden-view suites, some with a private pool.

Playa CoclesBest for polished comfort near the surf

Rates, availability and current details live on each hotel’s own site. We don’t sell or resell rooms. The design hotels earn their keep here for one reason: the gardens.

Photographs are credited on Photography credits. Hotel photographs show the properties featured; links go to each hotel’s own website.